For fish, on the water
The coast road running along Porto Rafti bay has half a dozen psarotavernas (fish tavernas) with tables almost on the sand. The drill is the same at all of them: walk in, look at what came off the boats that morning (usually displayed on ice near the door), pick your fish by weight, and let them grill it whole.
Order also: a Greek salad, some grilled octopus to start, fava purée, and a half-litre of cold white wine. You'll spend €25–40 a head. The view does most of the work.
Ask us which of these tavernas is best on the day you arrive — they swap places in our ranking over the season.
For everyday Greek food, off the water
Two streets inland from the seafront, the prices drop and the food is still very good. These are the places locals eat on Tuesday night — full plates of moussaka, pastitsio, gemista (stuffed vegetables), souvlaki straight off the grill, and a tomato salad that's the best thing on the table.
For a bakery breakfast
The bakery on the main square sells everything you'd want at 8 am — tiropita (cheese pie), spanakopita (spinach pie), fresh bread, koulouri (sesame bread rings), and proper coffee. Take it to the beach. Almost everything is under €3.
For lunch on the way back from a beach
If you spent the morning at Avlaki, there are two tavernas at the back of the cove that do a perfect long lunch — grilled fish, salad, ouzo, a long walk afterwards.
For drinks at sunset
The bars along the seafront in town are casual — espresso freddo in the morning, beer or wine from 6 pm onwards. No reservations, no dress code. If you want something more ambitious, drive 15 minutes inland to one of the Mesogaia wineries for a proper tasting.
For something different
A real ouzeri in Markopoulo
Drive 12 minutes inland to Markopoulo (the village we get our post from) for a traditional ouzeri: small plates, plenty of ouzo, no menu translation, no pretensions. This is where you go for the meal you'll remember.
A late-night kebab in Rafina
If you're up at midnight and hungry — and you sometimes will be — drive 25 minutes north to Rafina port. There's a souvlaki place at the harbour that's open until 4 am and feeds the ferry crowd. Pita and a beer for €5. Bring cash.
Practical bits
- Reservations: not usually needed mid-week. Friday and Saturday evenings in July/August — yes, especially for the seafront fish places.
- Cards: accepted almost everywhere now. Some smaller places prefer cash for amounts under €20.
- Tipping: round up, or 5–10% if the service was good. Not obligatory.
- Vegetarian: very easy. Greek cooking has decades of fasting traditions baked into it — the "νηστίσιμο" (nistísimo) section of most menus is essentially the vegan section.
- Allergies: staff usually speak enough English. "Without nuts / gluten / dairy" — "χωρίς…" — they'll understand.
If you want specific names and current opinions, message us before you arrive and we'll send our short list. Restaurants come and go; the ones we recommend in person are always our current favourites.
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