Why the Mesogaia matters
For a long time, Greek wine outside Greece meant retsina — a Savatiano white aged with Aleppo pine resin, ubiquitous and frequently terrible. The Mesogaia is where most retsina has historically come from, and where the best of it still does.
Over the last two decades, a new generation of producers has shown that Savatiano without resin is a serious grape — capable of bright, mineral whites that age well — and they've been planting Assyrtiko, Malagouzia and other native varieties alongside it. The result: a region 20 minutes from a major capital that almost no foreign tourist visits, making excellent wine.
Three wineries worth a visit
Papagiannakos Winery — Markopoulo (15 min)
Bioclimatic winery on a small hill outside Markopoulo. The architecture is striking — a low building dug partly into the slope, with the tasting room overlooking the vines. They're known for old-vine Savatiano (some plots are 60+ years old) and a Malagouzia that's worth the trip alone. Tastings are by appointment, usually €15–25 per person, often with a small plate of local cheese.
Mylonas Winery — Keratea direction (20 min)
Family-run, three generations. Focused on local grapes — their Savatiano is one of the best examples of the grape made anywhere, and they also produce a fascinating Mavrokoundoura red from a near-extinct local variety they're working to preserve. Warm, unfussy tastings.
Markou Vineyards — Pikermi direction (25 min)
The largest of the three, with the most polished tasting experience and a small restaurant on site. Good range across the price spectrum. A reasonable choice if you want a wine lunch rather than a serious tasting.
How to organise a visit
- Email the winery 2–3 days in advance to book (English is fine).
- Plan for one winery per half-day — don't try to "do three in a day"; the tastings are generous and you'll regret it.
- Don't drive afterwards. Even one tasting (5+ pours) is over the Greek limit. Take a taxi from the villa — €15–25 each way.
- Closed shoes if you want to walk the vines. Sun hat in summer.
- Most wineries will pack your favourite bottles for you to take home, and offer cheaper "winery-direct" pricing than the supermarket.
Grapes you'll see
- Savatiano — the workhorse white. At its best, lemony, mineral, with a slight saline edge. Made unresined now by almost all the serious producers.
- Assyrtiko — Greece's most famous white grape, originally from Santorini but planted here with very good results.
- Malagouzia — aromatic, peachy white. Rescued from near-extinction in the 1980s; a wine for hot afternoons.
- Roditis — pink-skinned grape used for whites and rosés. Crisp and gentle.
- Agiorgitiko — the most-planted red in Greece. Soft, plummy, food-friendly.
- Mavrodaphne — used for sweet wines but increasingly for dry reds with character.
One alternative — a wine bar in Athens
If you want a tasting menu of Greek wines without committing to a winery drive, head to Heteroclito or Materia Prima in central Athens — both have rotating Greek-wine flights and English-speaking staff who'll happily explain the regions. A nice 40-minute drive from the villa, doable as an early evening before dinner.
If you only do one winery while you're with us, make it Papagiannakos. The setting, the architecture, the wines and the family all reward the trip.← Back to all guides